Friday, 12 July 2013

The Great Escarpment and Dollars

The night was stunning with all the animal noises. In between we had to scratch because of all the tsetse fly bites we had endured the day before.  There is very little information about riding through tsetse areas.  A local health shop did some research and suggested rosemary oil. I was a bit more cautious and bought a long sleeved fishing shirt. Jeremy pointed out how the tsetse are attracted to blue as my back was full of the blighters. I looked at his back and his khaki shirt was also full up. Luckily I could change and the fishing shirt worked wonders as with a loose fit they couldn't reach me. The worst was the Lycra shorts as they just nailed us through them. Luckily there is padding in some vital areas. Strong rosemary oil does help but needs to be reapplied fairly often.

The road was more exciting with lots of spoor. Just enough to keep us alert. I was kinda wishing we would see a lion but also kinda hoping we wouldn't. Jeremy picked up loops of snare wire waiting to be set. I'm not sure if any animals will be spared but at least the poacher would have been inconvenienced. The pressure was on us as we knew we would reach the bottom of the escarpment when we were tired. I did my calculations and knew we needed to average about 18 km/hr for the day, including a slow climb of the escarpment. After about 3 hours I saw our average speed dropped because of lots of slow stops. Group riding is very different as when we stop for a pit stop someone will always talk and when we ready to go they will run around and do what is needed while others wait. Well, after a 10min stop and slow start I decided that I needed to control the pace or fail the days objectives. As those if you who know me will know, that I am very goal driven and do not allow a plan B or failure to be an option. I knew that Emma and Jeremy had mentioned possibly loading the bikes for a bit catching up kms the next day but I was not keen on this.   I kept to a pace that was sustainable and soon we had split. Beth then stuck with me in the Landy and Emma  looked after Jeremy. 

The riding was interesting going through the villages and at stages the sand road was so shot that cars travelled on the sides of the road whilst I had the road to myself. I reached the escarpment and waited a bit chatting to the guys at the control gate thinking that Jeremy may hop in the car and catch us. Fearing starting the escarpment with cold legs I pressed on. My training had worked and the pass was an enjoyable challenge. I came across locals on bicycles and had interesting chats and races. Gratefully my bike was a lot better than theirs and my gears worked. Luckily Emma caught us up at about 140kms to give us directions.

We arrived at the Dollars farm to a very warm Zimbabwean farmers welcome. Jeremy and Geoff went to the same school, Falcon College in Bulawayo, although at different times. Our hosts were fantastic and really made us at home. Thanks Geoff, Cathy and Julia for your hospitality. 

Zimbabwean farmers are probably some of the most special people in the world. They have a never say die attitude and whatever the obstacle thrown at them they find a way of making a life. I am sure it hasn't been without stress. Whilst the bulk of their land has been taken, they haven't allowed this to get them down and are redeveloping the remainder with center pivot irrigation. The amazing thing is that the country now has less than 20% of its land being properly productive. A sad thing is that the soil will not be able to sustain the intensity in the long term without expensive intervention. A great thing is that the Zimbabwean farmers do care and will find solutions as it is in their nature.

Jeremy and I rode into the Mvuaradona Park the next day. What stunning scenery. It is sad to hear that the local Chinese mining company operates with impunity and every now and then take out some chrome ore or hunt elephants.  In a national park??? Wow!

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