SENUKO TO THE END

It has taken a while to get the final blog up because when you take leave you don't get off work, you just get an opportunity to do the work before and after you are away.

The lodge at Senuko is in an absolutely beautiful setting. The dining and reception area was burnt down in a veld fire a few years ago and it will take guts for the owner to rebuild it while there is a chance of part or all of it being taken away from him by indigenisation . It's amazing how a government can stifle growth and long term potential with short term greed.

On a "rest" day there we made a few calls into local schools which had participated in the Pedal4Paws initiative. We drove on roads or tracks that would have been magic riding. The commitment from the schools was amazing with the area superintendent even riding quite a way on his bicycle to meet with us. Our second school had lost it's roof last summer and there is little chance of it being repaired by the authorities. The neighboring farms are not in a position to help as they themselves are being squeezed by the government who has withheld hunting permits thereby cutting off their income. They have to rely on photographic safaris to keep their businesses ticking over and aren't left with much spare to take on big projects. 

Back to riding, there had been a bit of discussion about whether we could ride the whole way on the final day  as it was not only long but also had the risk of seriously overloaded cane trucks. The distance was originally 70km, then 100kms and when we saw the map it was more like 135kms. As we had come to ride, there was no choice, we just had to do it. Mark had spent the rest day carbo loading and our bikes were washed and ready to roar. On our way in  we had escorts to take care of the dangers of the wild animals, but I noticed on our way out we relied on Andie and Beth. I originally thought it was because of Marks jokes the previous night but maybe they also realized how good our escorts were. There was lots of evidence of lion, hyena leopard and elephant on the 28kms out of the reserve but all we actually saw was a few ellies. It was our last chance for a lion encounter and I really was disappointed. I had thought of many scenarios and in each one I survived, so why not test them? Or at least one? To tell the real truth. ... I was really glad I didn't have to test my bravery. I found out that if a lion attacked me, Beth would attack it with the Landy. I didn't ever ask where I fitted in.

 

The tar road section was really interesting as there were no verges and huge drop offs next the road.  The cane trucks were no exaggeration with cane hanging a few metres on either side of the trucks. If a car was coming the other way the only place for us was down the bank. That was the coolest part of that section. As we were all different strengths, Mark wisely didn't need to be taught to slipstream to conserve energy. Jeremy has never been a roadie and was a bit cautious about sucking Marks wheel. On the second day he was on my wheel when I stopped in the sand and he took a dive. Going into a strong wind we kept dropping back to pull Jeremy and somehow he ended up with a new name as we became delirious. The last 40 odd kms was one of the best sections of the ride as we hit a rocky twisting road. Young Nicky joined us on this section but I couldn't help but notice her gears were jumping.  Not knowing better, she just persevered. When I couldn't set the gears I noticed she had a twisted chain and it needed more than a Leatherman. We ended up swapping bikes and I was reminded what it was like riding a 26" bike with hardly any shocks and jumping gears. Good memories actually. I have been spoilt with my carbon Tallboy and will always think of Nicky's bike when I am not happy with mine. Nicky seemed to really enjoy my bike and enjoyed riding away from me in the rough stuff.

Reaching Chilo Gorge Lodge was a magic moment.  After 8 hours we were exhausted. Chilo had been our target for the past two weeks and it was no let down. The lodge is designed to make the most of it's incredible setting overlooking the Save river and onto the Gonerazhou park. For weeks we had been told that it is probably the most beautiful serene place in Zimbabwe and that is not an exaggeration. 

Beth and I decided to stay another night at the lodge as it was our 30th wedding anniversary. Everyone headed off in their own directions and it was an anti-climax. We had done so much together and now we were exhausted, we didn't even have a thrash. 

We came across the most amazing places and people and will have to go back to really appreciate them. We were moved by the needs of the conservation efforts and the plight of the rural schools. Beth and I have made a commitment to continue to raise awareness and where possible collect funds to support the cause. We just hope everybody else considers support of the Painted Dog Organization ( www.painteddog.org ), the African Wildlife Conservation Fund (www.africanwildlifeconservationfund.org ) and Pedal4Paws ( www.pedal4paws.com ).

There has been suggestions that a cycle event will be organised in Save Valley Conservancy. Look out for it and if it happens, it's worth the effort going there

Chishakwe, African Wild Dogs and Rosemary all over me

At Chishakwe we had a day off the bikes, but we had a mission. Part of the Pedal4Paws objective was to get some education material to the seriously under-privileged schools in the Save Valley Conservancy. Rosemary Groom (if you read the heading, she gets a mention again later ) heads up a project which involves and uplifts the surrounding area with one of their objectives being to create conservation through education. She is not only pretty, she is also quite clever with a string of degrees and a doctorate. Back to the education, we had been requested to bring as much material as possible as we had seen photos of kids sitting on the floor drawing pictures on old scraps of paper. Quite a few of the classes are based outside under trees and although the government supplies teachers, they do not have the resources. When we compare it with the smart boards and electronic media our kids work with, it is worlds apart. I had sent out e-mails to over 100 people requesting donations and Beth did some presentations at Winterton Primary School (WPS) showing the conditions the kids have to learn under. I got no response, but the kids at WPS were incredible. Many little kids used their pocket money to buy a few books or pencils. It nearly brought me to tears when I saw what came in. Kids cleared out their book shelves and some made up little parcels with special notes to the save kids. How great it is to see kids growing up with a caring culture. It also nearly brought me to tears when I realized how much we had to load in the car over and above the cycling and camping kit. Luckily, Landys are tough. Our objective for the day was to visit the local school, judge the art competition promoting Wild Dog Conservation and visit a den of Wild Dogs. The school was very jacked up and had put in an incredible effort driving the promotion. The art work was great with over 80 kids doing something. It was heart-warming seeing they joy on the kid’s faces when they received the donated reading books. The whole thing got me thinking on the privilege of being able to give and as long as it is not self-serving and as long as it does not denigrate those receiving, it is great.

One of the highlights of the whole trip was the visit to the Wild Dog den. The dogs have been observed by Rosemary and her team to study them. The dogs had pups in the den but they kept them hidden in the morning. After a guided trip around the pristine reserve with Dave Goosen of Sango Lodge ( www.sango-wildlife.com it’s worth a look), we went back in the afternoon. After a bit of a wait we were spoilt with a sighting of about 8 dogs and once they were relaxed about the vehicle being there, about 11 pups came out of the hole. After never having seen Wild Dog in the wild, we have now had the privilege of seeing them with their pups which had recently been weaned.

Back to the riding, when we left Mutare, Mark Rodwell joined us for the second part of the trip. He has a great sense of humour and cheered up the ride. After a week and a half of such diverse strangers being put in a pressure pot together, tensions were showing.  Mark and his wife Andy created a balance. He tells me he had only done few training rides since last October, but he amazingly just hung in. As we were about to leave Chishakwe the morning after the dogs, we were chatting to Rosemary while getting ready to go. I was a bit dog-balled from no sleep as Beth and I had been debating about whether to abandon our ride or not. Instead of spraying sunblock on me, I had picked up a sprayer which had our rosemary tsetse fly prevention in it and sprayed it liberally all over me. Mark commented that I better not tell Beth that Rosemary was all over me. Luckily Rosemary has a sense of humour.

When we were about to leave, Rosemary asked if Jess, one of her colleagues, could drive with Beth. Well, Jess is very pretty and super cheerful. I did think about making Beth ride and me driving with Jess but Beth’s death stare made me hop on my bike. It was the first time in our whole trip where Beth had had any company in the car. As always, any adventure like this has unsung heroes and Beth was definitely the one here. She followed every inch slowly in the Landy, waiting while we got through the sand. I did see the joy on her face when faced with tricky exits out of river beds. I have a feeling we will be fighting about driving on our next Landy adventure.

The days ride to Senuko was about 65 kms but it was in an area full of game. Luckily Dave Goosen kindly followed us to ensure we would not blot their reputation and become a statistic to the local ellies or black rhino. We saw quite a few lion and leopard spoor. We rode through a big herd of elephant, saw a lot of antelope and had to slow down for a herd of wildebeest to cross the road. Once again the track had a fair amount of challenges with sand and corrugation. Thank God for 29ers and full suspension bikes. Some of the kids wanted to ride but the only one able to do anything was Nicky, Anthony and Amanda’s daughter. On a shot bike, she just smiled and cranked it. We found out later that her chain was twisted and her gears kept jumping. There is nothing like attitude and tenacity to overcome little problems.    

Harare, Mutare and blisters on the bum

I could have very easily stayed on at the Dollars as we had made ourselves quite comfortable. I decided that at my stage of life I could choose the dangers I faced. Riding in parks with lions, elephant, buffaloes and hyena have a certain excitement about it. It is easy to be cautious and an encounter doesn’t always have dire consequences. On the other hand, the dangers of trucks and taxis have no excitement value to me and you very seldom have much chance after an encounter. I decided to skip the section from the Dollars in Horseshoe to Harare as there were no verges on the narrow road and plenty of taxis that obviously learnt to imitate their South African cousins.

In Harare we were hosted by Bruce and Gilly Hartman. Bruce is Beth’s cousin. Once again we were treated to fantastic Zimbabwean hospitality. It was great to see that the positive attitude and tenacity has enabled these Zimbabwean farmers to create a wonderful life for their families. Beth was delighted to see how the children have grown into such delightful well-mannered young adults. Many interesting discussions were held over a Zambezi or two on the challenges of their farming and the progressive management and methods used.

Pedal4Paws and Painted Wolf Wines were involved in fund raising event called Taste of Africa. This was done to raise funds for the conservation of African Wild Dogs. For more info have a look at www.painteddog.org/ and www.africanwildlifeconservationfund.org . There was an auction of artwork and holiday accommodation. What really grabbed me was how artists have contributed their art to raise funds for the cause. The quality of photo prints and paintings was outstanding. The food was great and as usual, the Painted Wolf Wines were wonderful. Beth’s favourite for the day was the Rosalind, a Pinotage Rose` and I got stuck into the Chenin Blanc.

We were having such a good time that we bought a 3 day stay with Greg Rasmussen tracking wild dogs in Hwange or Mana Pools. I did this to commit us to returning to Zimbabwe and to support their conservation efforts.

The next day we were told to report for a race in the Mukuvisi Woodlands. As Pedals 4 Paws riders we were to ride as celebrities. Mmmm…., this was a bit odd for me who is used to being a middle of the pack rider. It was a great windy track and I had a chance to ride with Beth and win a t-shirt. Well done Mukuvisi for a great fun day.

The topic included blisters on the bum. Well, the morning after a bit of wine tasting at the Inn on the Mvumba outside Mutare , we set off for what we thought was a 120km ride. I think with the amount of wine sampled the night before all of us had a different place to meet in the morning. It was interesting and took an hour or so for us all to come together. As we spoke, the distance got longer. The scenery was stunning with Chimanimani Mountains to our left and the hills on our right. The 1^st 150 km was on tar and done at a base building pace at about 60% heart rate. The problem with this that at that pace I tend to sit more upright. Being on tar I just sat and some parts had to wear. My saddle was tougher than my bum and I couldn’t even show off my scars. When we turned onto the dirt road into the Save Valley Conservancy, http://www.chishakwe.com/save.html , the others had decided to take a break. So as not to hold the procession with my guards up, I decided to go flat out and after about 8 hours was surprised that I could still ride sand and corrugated road at about 28kms/hr and 85 to 90% heart rate. At least I couldn’t feel my backside any more.   

The Great Escarpment and Dollars

The night was stunning with all the animal noises. In between we had to scratch because of all the tsetse fly bites we had endured the day before.  There is very little information about riding through tsetse areas.  A local health shop did some research and suggested rosemary oil. I was a bit more cautious and bought a long sleeved fishing shirt. Jeremy pointed out how the tsetse are attracted to blue as my back was full of the blighters. I looked at his back and his khaki shirt was also full up. Luckily I could change and the fishing shirt worked wonders as with a loose fit they couldn't reach me. The worst was the Lycra shorts as they just nailed us through them. Luckily there is padding in some vital areas. Strong rosemary oil does help but needs to be reapplied fairly often.

The road was more exciting with lots of spoor. Just enough to keep us alert. I was kinda wishing we would see a lion but also kinda hoping we wouldn't. Jeremy picked up loops of snare wire waiting to be set. I'm not sure if any animals will be spared but at least the poacher would have been inconvenienced. The pressure was on us as we knew we would reach the bottom of the escarpment when we were tired. I did my calculations and knew we needed to average about 18 km/hr for the day, including a slow climb of the escarpment. After about 3 hours I saw our average speed dropped because of lots of slow stops. Group riding is very different as when we stop for a pit stop someone will always talk and when we ready to go they will run around and do what is needed while others wait. Well, after a 10min stop and slow start I decided that I needed to control the pace or fail the days objectives. As those if you who know me will know, that I am very goal driven and do not allow a plan B or failure to be an option. I knew that Emma and Jeremy had mentioned possibly loading the bikes for a bit catching up kms the next day but I was not keen on this.   I kept to a pace that was sustainable and soon we had split. Beth then stuck with me in the Landy and Emma  looked after Jeremy. 

The riding was interesting going through the villages and at stages the sand road was so shot that cars travelled on the sides of the road whilst I had the road to myself. I reached the escarpment and waited a bit chatting to the guys at the control gate thinking that Jeremy may hop in the car and catch us. Fearing starting the escarpment with cold legs I pressed on. My training had worked and the pass was an enjoyable challenge. I came across locals on bicycles and had interesting chats and races. Gratefully my bike was a lot better than theirs and my gears worked. Luckily Emma caught us up at about 140kms to give us directions.

We arrived at the Dollars farm to a very warm Zimbabwean farmers welcome. Jeremy and Geoff went to the same school, Falcon College in Bulawayo, although at different times. Our hosts were fantastic and really made us at home. Thanks Geoff, Cathy and Julia for your hospitality. 

Zimbabwean farmers are probably some of the most special people in the world. They have a never say die attitude and whatever the obstacle thrown at them they find a way of making a life. I am sure it hasn't been without stress. Whilst the bulk of their land has been taken, they haven't allowed this to get them down and are redeveloping the remainder with center pivot irrigation. The amazing thing is that the country now has less than 20% of its land being properly productive. A sad thing is that the soil will not be able to sustain the intensity in the long term without expensive intervention. A great thing is that the Zimbabwean farmers do care and will find solutions as it is in their nature.

Jeremy and I rode into the Mvuaradona Park the next day. What stunning scenery. It is sad to hear that the local Chinese mining company operates with impunity and every now and then take out some chrome ore or hunt elephants.  In a national park??? Wow!

Finally, Some riding

At last, we have got to Mana Pools. What a stunning place.  It really is worth the trip. Our campsite is set on the Zambezi with the most stunning view across the river onto Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia. It is the first time in a few days that we are settled in time to have a gin and tonic and watch the sun set. 

We met our traveling companions for the first time this morning and have a lot to talk about. Our permit to ride through the park only came through during the last week and we can now focus on the ride. 

The next day we have a rest day and try to find out a bit about the tracks and no one can really give much information other than to  tell us that we are either very brave or crazy. Our permit states that we must have an armed guard for a section, but this is not practical and we arranged to meet the area manager the next morning. We also hear stories of how a lion tore open someone's tent recently and tore his pillow. This is getting more interesting. 

We had an interesting afternoon having a few beers with Peter Blinstone of Painted Dog Conservation and his wife Catherine. It was fascinating listening how interference by humans in some of the parks has created a population explosion of elephants because water is being pumped, making life easier and breading has increased over the years.  The vegetation can no longer cope with the population. 

After a night of hearing hyenas in the camp and some lion in the early morning, we are keen and ready to get going. After our meeting it is agreed we  have to take a guard to the Mana Pools border but can do the other areas without one. Off we go with a really pleasant chap accompanying Beth. At least she learnt what to do if a lion chased us. The area is full of spoor and we ride in anticipation of bumping into something interesting. We got to the boundary without any problems and take the guard back. It was fascinating listening to him and we decide the when in Mana Pools again we hire Shadrack. 

When we get back to the others there is no rush because today is just a cruise - or so we thought. My GPS only shows me the direct distance and we just don't seem to make much progress.  The Zambezi river is stunning and commands our attention. The track is windy and bumpy so we cant look around too much whilst riding. As the day unfolds we realize the we are doing 50% more than the direct distance. We also realize that we are running out of daylight.  We make a rookie error and split with one vehicle going ahead so Jeremy and Emma's kids can have a break from the car. Jeremy is taking strain and our average speed is dropping whike day light runs out. After about 85kms we eventually get to our camp as it starts to get dark. What a pity. Chewore is an absolutely stunning spot on the banks of the Zambezi.  With a beautiful sunset while we are trying to get set up, we miss out. This is just another spot we will have to come back to. We start to plan for the next day. 

We have heard it is about 120 to Mkanga Bridge and then a few more to where we will meet Dick Pitman who has kindly allowed us to share his bush camp for the night. As Emma and the kids are nit keen on an early morning, we agree the Jeremy and I will start as soon as it is light and Beth will accompany us in the Landy. 

In the morning we head off as planned and get a good speed going. The bush is quite thick and there are lots of spoor from the previous night. I had given directions to Emma to go parallel to the Chewore river and if she gets to the T junction after us to go left. After a few hours we wander where she is but there is nothing much we can do. We stick to our schedule and realize there is no time to wait. When she eventually catches us, we find out that the man at the lodge confused her and told her to cross a dry sandy river we had crossed the previous day. She got stuck and after a few attempts with a Cruiser they had to call a tractor from the nearby bush camp. We make the camp with some time to spare. It is a secret camp do I can't share any details but it was great to get a little bit of water from an elephant pool to have a wash. We were exhausted so turned in after an early supper and some really great Painted Wolf Rose called Rosalind.    

Tomorrow is our biggest day. We will have to do something between 120 and 140 km with the escarpment at about 100kms.  Its going to be a great challenge.

Crooked cops

All the planning has been done and the time has come to test it. Packing is always stressful as last minute work has to be squeezed in and focus is lost, but thanks to the lists we managed.

For years I have avoided traveling through Zimbabwe because of the stories I have heard about crooked cops putting you in a position that you have to give them a bribe. We have always made a point of going around Zim wherever possible . Well, we could double what we heard and it will be more like it. About 200m through the border we thought we were being stopped by a cop but the guy was actually trying to sell reflective vests. The cops were another 100m further and wanted US $20 for us stopping in a no stopping zone. We couldn't see any signs and the road markings must have worn away 20 years ago. It was just a rigged and a way of stealing from nervous travellers. After a long negotiation we were let off. Within the next 100kms we had our next run in. We drove slowly through a 60km/hr area and debated whether we were through as there was nothing there.  As we sped up two excited cops sprinted out into the road. We were  doing about 80 and they reckoned we were doing 91. No Landy can speed up that fast. We were told we were to appear in court as I was over the fine limit . As it was Friday after lunch, that would only be possible on Monday. Their solution was to give them R3000 and the problem will go away. There was no chance of 3 grand going to them. After a lengthy discussion I was asked to make an offer. I told them $20 and settled on 30. As most of my friends will know, I am highly critical of bribing. The problem here is that the alternative is unacceptable. The next day we  had another problem where there were signs reducing speed before a toll gate and nothing afterwards. As it wasn't a built up area I sped up to 80 and got nailed again. This time $20 cash. The guys we had met up with overtook a car where there were no lines and the  cops were standing there.  Another $20 for the cops. What really gets me is that the signage is so bad and the cops strategically placed to take advantage of it. The objective is not road safety but to make money.  Sadly for the government the cops get a lot of the revenue but when they don't play fair, who cares. 

Some lessons re-learned:

1. Don't drive in Africa on a Friday afternoon or weekend as if you do anything wrong they have you over a barrel. Court is on Monday. 

2. If you do need to go through Zim, get you 80 year old grandmother to drive you in her old Nissan Sunny 1400 that can only do 60. It will be less stressful.

How fantastic it is to see the improvement in the roads. Some are still shot but there is action and even some being rebuilt. Maybe they will get new road signs sometime soon.

A crazy idea for a good cause

Sitting in an hotel in Philadelphia, I am wandering what the hell I have got myself into. It doesn't help that my head is a bit thick from those cognacs that had been so kindly offered to me after dinner at Supper restaurant. 

Reality is setting in. My trip to the States has come to an end and I now have to face my commitment at the other end of the world. Why am I nervous? Well, when I committed myself to riding through Mana Pools it was months away and the animals were just a dream. As D-day gets closer the blooming things are getting bigger and more vicious.  I don't think I will be pulling the lions tail after all. I can't remember - is the elephants mock charge when it's ears are pulled back or pushed forward? Have I remembered all the spares I need for my bike? Are my tools all there or have my kids borrowed something?  Luckily Beth has everything else under control.

What is all this about? 

A few months ago I decided to combine my love of traveling, the bush, adventure and mountain biking to join Jeremy Borg of Painted Wolf Wines www.paintedwolfwines.com and Pedal4Paws www.pedal4paws.com on a cycle across Zimbabwe to raise funds for the conservation of the African Wild Dog. Beth and I have been desperately looking for these beautiful animals in the wild for years and have never had much luck.  I have also been trying to get some guys to join me riding on the edges of the Kafue and Luangwa rivers in Zambia without much success. 

So that is how I got  committed.  

Now for the reality.  Lists are made and remade. I even need a list to remember all my lists. Landy stuff, camping stuff, riding stuff, photographic stuff, food stuff..... Thank God for Beth.  While I am in the States she is sorting out my Landy spares. Not that I think I'll need them, but just maybe. ... I have learnt over the years never to be arrogant enough to chirp about vehicles, mine could be the next to embarrass me. 

Over the next few weeks, Beth and I hope to update you on how our trip is doing.  Hopefully lots of animals from a distance just far enough to be safe, but close enough to be exciting. The lion and hyena are renowned in the Zambesi for being aggressive and the odd person has had an altercation with an elephant, but if we keep our eyes and ears open we should be OK.

Well, ........I hope so