Crooked cops

All the planning has been done and the time has come to test it. Packing is always stressful as last minute work has to be squeezed in and focus is lost, but thanks to the lists we managed.

For years I have avoided traveling through Zimbabwe because of the stories I have heard about crooked cops putting you in a position that you have to give them a bribe. We have always made a point of going around Zim wherever possible . Well, we could double what we heard and it will be more like it. About 200m through the border we thought we were being stopped by a cop but the guy was actually trying to sell reflective vests. The cops were another 100m further and wanted US $20 for us stopping in a no stopping zone. We couldn't see any signs and the road markings must have worn away 20 years ago. It was just a rigged and a way of stealing from nervous travellers. After a long negotiation we were let off. Within the next 100kms we had our next run in. We drove slowly through a 60km/hr area and debated whether we were through as there was nothing there.  As we sped up two excited cops sprinted out into the road. We were  doing about 80 and they reckoned we were doing 91. No Landy can speed up that fast. We were told we were to appear in court as I was over the fine limit . As it was Friday after lunch, that would only be possible on Monday. Their solution was to give them R3000 and the problem will go away. There was no chance of 3 grand going to them. After a lengthy discussion I was asked to make an offer. I told them $20 and settled on 30. As most of my friends will know, I am highly critical of bribing. The problem here is that the alternative is unacceptable. The next day we  had another problem where there were signs reducing speed before a toll gate and nothing afterwards. As it wasn't a built up area I sped up to 80 and got nailed again. This time $20 cash. The guys we had met up with overtook a car where there were no lines and the  cops were standing there.  Another $20 for the cops. What really gets me is that the signage is so bad and the cops strategically placed to take advantage of it. The objective is not road safety but to make money.  Sadly for the government the cops get a lot of the revenue but when they don't play fair, who cares. 

Some lessons re-learned:

1. Don't drive in Africa on a Friday afternoon or weekend as if you do anything wrong they have you over a barrel. Court is on Monday. 

2. If you do need to go through Zim, get you 80 year old grandmother to drive you in her old Nissan Sunny 1400 that can only do 60. It will be less stressful.

How fantastic it is to see the improvement in the roads. Some are still shot but there is action and even some being rebuilt. Maybe they will get new road signs sometime soon.

A crazy idea for a good cause

Sitting in an hotel in Philadelphia, I am wandering what the hell I have got myself into. It doesn't help that my head is a bit thick from those cognacs that had been so kindly offered to me after dinner at Supper restaurant. 

Reality is setting in. My trip to the States has come to an end and I now have to face my commitment at the other end of the world. Why am I nervous? Well, when I committed myself to riding through Mana Pools it was months away and the animals were just a dream. As D-day gets closer the blooming things are getting bigger and more vicious.  I don't think I will be pulling the lions tail after all. I can't remember - is the elephants mock charge when it's ears are pulled back or pushed forward? Have I remembered all the spares I need for my bike? Are my tools all there or have my kids borrowed something?  Luckily Beth has everything else under control.

What is all this about? 

A few months ago I decided to combine my love of traveling, the bush, adventure and mountain biking to join Jeremy Borg of Painted Wolf Wines www.paintedwolfwines.com and Pedal4Paws www.pedal4paws.com on a cycle across Zimbabwe to raise funds for the conservation of the African Wild Dog. Beth and I have been desperately looking for these beautiful animals in the wild for years and have never had much luck.  I have also been trying to get some guys to join me riding on the edges of the Kafue and Luangwa rivers in Zambia without much success. 

So that is how I got  committed.  

Now for the reality.  Lists are made and remade. I even need a list to remember all my lists. Landy stuff, camping stuff, riding stuff, photographic stuff, food stuff..... Thank God for Beth.  While I am in the States she is sorting out my Landy spares. Not that I think I'll need them, but just maybe. ... I have learnt over the years never to be arrogant enough to chirp about vehicles, mine could be the next to embarrass me. 

Over the next few weeks, Beth and I hope to update you on how our trip is doing.  Hopefully lots of animals from a distance just far enough to be safe, but close enough to be exciting. The lion and hyena are renowned in the Zambesi for being aggressive and the odd person has had an altercation with an elephant, but if we keep our eyes and ears open we should be OK.

Well, ........I hope so